learning german: language and traditions

A thought for the day

 I have not been so great about taking pictures lately. But, I've enjoyed not viewing my world through my camera's display screen.  My friend Kyle, who's just moved to South Korea, made me realize this.  He said he was glad he wasn't hindered by a camera when he first arrived, "because I know I'd be taking photos instead of experiencing everything."  It's true. Since I've been here, I've often wanted to share the whole experience with someone who's not here with me and who might never have that experience.  So I start snapping photos. The problem is, the visual experience
is such a small part of it all.  I can post the photos here and try to describe the sounds and smells, and even my thoughts and emotions, but it still can never really capture the Gestalt of it all.  That's not to say I'm feeling pessimistic about this blog.  I've appreciated taking a step back (or a step closer, as the case may be) and experiencing everything fully.  Maybe I'm starting to realize the meaning of the strapline for this blog that I came up with during the anticipation of moving here: Live life deliciously.

German language

We now have two weeks of intensive German lessons under our belts. Friday, after class, I was able to have a fairly abstract conversation with the school director using more than 50% German!  When I first started learning the language, through audio books, Rosetta Stone, and Google searches, I didn't think it was a language I would love. But I've come to realize that it is a fairly logical language and I tend to catch on quickly.  I love picking up new words every day. I love eavesdropping on the bus to see how much of a conversation I can understand. I love that I am now relatively comfortable interacting in day-to-day situations: ordering food ("Ist das vegetarisch?" comes in quite handy), letting the old lady on the bus know that she can sit next to me (and asking her to move when I need to get out), understanding when the cashier is not sure whether she rang something up and needs to check my receipt (yay for not accidentally shoplifting!).

But there are some things I don't love.
1. Formality. As in Spanish, there are two forms of "you"...Sie (formal) and du (informal). This on its own, I can handle.  I can even handle conjugating the two verb forms differently.  What drives me crazy is the emphasis that is put on formality in general here. We've been asked by colleagues whether we've been "invited" to call our supervisor by his first name.  Our language textbook has an example where a guy is asking his dinner guest (in his home) whether they should refer to each other in informal terms. Seems like an awkward conversation to have, no?  It's just not my style.  I'm a casual kind of gal.

2. Telling time. If you know me at all, you know I don't like to be rushed. Telling time in German is all about rushing. In fact, one way to ask for the time literally translates to, "How late is it?"  And then comes the answer: let's say it's 10:30... that's "half eleven". A full thirty minutes before the hour, and they're already worried about it! But it gets worse. If it's 10:25, it's "five before half eleven"; 10:20, "ten before half eleven". The only time people are ever concerned with the current hour is during the first 15 minutes.  Relax, people!

German traditions

I learned a lot about German traditions on my birthday. As a gift to me, D organized a celebration with our new friends, co-workers,  classmates, and teachers. In his email, he specifically requested that "gifts were absolutely not expected", not knowing whether that is something people here worry about or not. As it turned out, even with such a request, the majority of the people in attendance (and it was a decent turn out!) brought gifts.  Honestly, I don't think I've gotten this many gifts since elementary school. And these were not just easy gift cards, mind you, these things required thought. Here is a sampling: A couple of people made me CDs of German music (which are wonderful!). Someone brought me a regional wine in a beautiful handmade origami-type wrapping. Another person brought me a game that is like Memory, but is made up of sights in Tübingen and includes a map of where to find them. And the best of all, from my supervisor, a "Swabian starter kit". More on that below.

The area of Germany where we live, Baden Württemberg, is the Swabian part of the country. Here, there are customs that are different from the rest of Germany and date way, way back. My starter kit included a package of Spätzle, which are basically egg noodles that are delicious with cheese (and admit it, Käsespätzle sounds so much fancier than mac n' cheese). I also got a German to Swabian dictionary. Apparently, this dialect of German is so different that it is almost a different language altogether. Many German speakers have told us that they cannot understand true Swabian. Here is a little something from the Wiki:

 

"This image is a sticker that translates as: "We can do anything except [speak] standard German." This is a light-hearted allusion to the fact that Baden-Württemberg is one of the principal centers for innovation in Germany and also for its distinctive dialects."

Finally, the starter kit also included this sign: Kehrwoche literally translates to "sweeping week", and it pretty much means exactly that. If you live in an apartment building, as many people do here, you are expected to take turns cleaning the common areas, including the sidewalks outside. According to one colleague, you are expected to sweep every day of your week, even if it is not really dirty. This, too, is a regional custom, and apparently people in other parts of Germany like to make fun of it. The purpose of the sign? Maybe you guessed it already, but this is the sign you will find on your door if it is your turn to clean. It might sound communist and crazy, but I think I actually like this custom.  I don't mind cleaning, and I have to say, things are pretty clean here.  And there is something about seeing people outside sweeping every day. When people care about their surroundings, it gives you the sense that this place is special. And it is.

That said, the folks at our new apartment are pretty laid back about this custom. According to the landlords, we only have to worry about taking the (pre-sorted!) trash to the collection spot on the street and sweeping the snow off the entryway. There are no set Kehrwochen; if you see it needs to be done, you do it.

And speaking of the new apartment, we have begun moving in! The new place certainly has its quirks, but I think the location offsets them all.  More on that (with photos!) soon!